Tasmania, A Devilish Destination

It doesn’t take long after landing in Hobart, the capital, to grasp that Tasmania is a pocket version of Australia—if Australia had been preserved in amber like an insect a few generations back instead of having transformed itself into the state-of-the-art destination that it is today.

Indeed, everything that happens on “the mainland,” as Tasmanians call Australia, takes time to arrive on this hardy island. Australians endearingly refer to the island as “Tassie,” a place that not many calendar pages back was an afterthought to the neighboring island continent that draws visitors by the boatload and plane full.

It was a backwater spot, the small dot in the sea that eyed Australia covetously as the northwest tourism colossus often seemed to be running amok with polished suburbs, shopping centers and crowded beaches. Australians shrugged Tasmania off the same way that Canadians mock Newfoundland. No more.

Some travelers will find Tasmania as refreshing as the Antarctic winds that habitually blow up from the bottom of the world to give the island its exquisite weather. Tasmania is a destination of stunning, retiring beauty. It has raised the tourism ante with first-rate accommodations, alluring attractions, and exceptional cuisine. It’s where refinement coexists blissfully with a rugged natural ecosystem, although one of the more distinctive Tasmanian allures is its lack of crowds.

outdoor wonderland

Upon landing, those with only a shallow understanding of Tasmania will, in all probability, scratch their heads and ponder the inevitable question: “Okay. I’m in Hobart. What do I do?”

According to John Fitzgerald, chief executive of Tourism Tasmania, visitors won’t lack for singular activities and adventures and will regularly leave wishing their stay had been longer.

“Tasmania displays the traditional character and special appeal of a remote island destination with friendly locals, a
creative spirit, unique wildlife and a range of world-class recreation and tourism experiences near the major cities,” he says.

On the surface, the island has that inimitable, patently rugged Australian quality and gives the impression of having been custom-made for the Field & Stream set.

“Tasmania is a hiker’s paradise, with around 1,800 miles of managed walking trails and a number of award-winning walking tours that take guests through rainforests, alongside alpine lakes and streams, across mountains or coastal cliffs or along white sandy beaches,” Fitzgerald adds.

Anglers will delight casting their lines after what Fitzgerald says is the “purest strain of wild brown trout on the planet”—descendants of dyspeptic trout relocated from the United Kingdom about 150 years ago and still thriving in icy Tasmanian streams.

Golfers will perk up when realizing that—according to Fitzgerald—Tasmania “is home to two of the top 100 golf courses that are often lauded as being the best outside Scotland.”

And if that weren’t enough, he adds, visitors “will enjoy our fresh produce, seafood, cool climate wineries, single malt whiskies, beer and ciders—all of which are achieving worldwide acclaim for their handcrafted quality.”

must-sees

Hobart’s Museum of Old and New Art (MONA)—a cutting-edge complex in a cutting-edge city—has given Hobart a fresh reputation as a sophisticated destination of art and refinement.

The museum has helped spark interest in Tasmania by offering an unconventional display of the world’s most infamous and stimulating contemporary art and is regularly regarded as a “must-see.”

The outskirts of Hobart are dotted with out-of-the-way restaurants and inns in quaint farming villages like Woodbridge and Cygnet. Visitors wanting to get away from it all will delight in the remoteness of Tassie’s favorite escape hideaway on Bruny Island, a short ferry ride away from Hobart.

Those who prefer to drive will find a circuit around Tasmania to be one of the most scenic road trips anywhere, rivaling California’s Big Sur or Maine’s craggy coastline. Memorable historic sites along the way include the convict fort near Port Arthur, a UNESCO World Heritage site that crowns a bluff and is best appreciated during a hike or from the sea on a number of cruises from Port Arthur.

Places like Maria and Freycinet national parks on the eastern coast simply astonish with perfect half-moon bays and beaches so white they look like they were frosted with sugar.

Oenophiles will find the Tamar Valley, just beyond the mountains from Port Arthur, to be an undiscovered pinot noir dreamland. Beyond the valley lies Stanley, a village that gives new meaning to the word “lovely.” The most distinctive Stanley landmark is The Nut, the plug from a dormant volcano rising about 450 ft. to a flat top, accessible by a trail or a chairlift at the base.

And how does one go about selling this surprising destination?

Candice Heckel, product manager at Down Under Endeavours, an elite group of retail travel agents of the Premier Specialist Program for U.S. and Canadian travelers, based in Chicago, says, “Tassie is a great place for those interested in wildlife, outdoor activities, food and wine, local history and culture. Since it is a very diverse state, with a lot to offer, it is best suited for clients who have the time to explore. I recommend a minimum of four to five nights in order to get a good overview of what it has to offer.”

According to Heckel, Down Under Endeavours “specializes in FIT programs. Tasmania is wonderfully suited for this type of client. It is a great destination for self-driving. Beautiful scenic roads are easy to navigate. It is also very accessible, with multiple direct flights from Sydney and Melbourne to its two major hubs, Launceston and Hobart.”

Most travel books maintain that it’s possible to see the whole of Tasmania in one week, but locals chuckle and invariably ask, “Why the rush?” After only a few hours, travelers realize that Tassie doesn’t lend itself to a hectic pace—and that may be its strongest selling point.

accommodation options

Tasmania has no lack of accommodations that range from the humble to the sublime. Saffire Freycinet, about two hours removed from Hobart, is one of its most storied hotels. It’s a low-key, elegant property. The hotel offers a 2-night package (from approximately $1,400 dbl) that will appeal to those passing through while exploring the Tasmanian coast.

Nearby, Stewarts Bay Lodge (from about $330 pp dbl) is an award-winning property offering a small number of cabins, all with decks, consisting of one to three bedrooms. All the cabins face two dazzling bays, Stewarts and Ladies Bay, and have easy access to hidden coves below on the rocky beach. The view is to be expected—after all, the resort is almost hidden between a beach and a forest. It’s the preferred accommodation for those who come to enjoy classic Tasmanian hikes like the Cape Hauy Walk, from where one can see seascapes unlike any others.

Days spent in Tasmania seeking either adventure or sheer relaxation will be underlined by a stay at Dragonfly Lodge (from about $750 per night dbl), a luxurious base about one hour from Hobart on the island’s East Coast. Dragonfly is a boutique lodge of only three well-appointed suites. Its rural setting gives it a sense of privacy and isolation and it’s the preferred resort for those who seek wildlife viewing and astounding surroundings.

getting there

It is easy to reach Tasmania via flights from Sydney or Melbourne. Qantas, Virgin Australia and Jetstar all offer several daily flights from about $136 one-way.